Stretch! Stretch! Stretch! How can you sew stretch fabrics smoothly?

Published:

2023/12/18

Author:

Weitai Industrial

Elastic fabrics, also known as knitted fabrics, are prized for their excellent stretch and are often used to make underwear, sportswear, T-shirts, and more.

　　Elastic fabrics, also known as knitted fabrics, are prized for their excellent stretch and are often used to make underwear, sportswear, T-shirts, and more.

　　Many of you watching this may have handled or sewn this type of fabric before. However, despite its popularity, it’s not as easy to work with as it seems. A little carelessness during sewing can lead to puckering, thread breakage, and other issues, making smooth stitching of stretchy fabrics quite challenging.

　　Today, we’ll share some handy tips for sewing stretchy fabrics.

　　Needle selection

　　Home sewing machine needles come in several sizes, and you should choose based on the fabric’s thickness. For lightweight fabrics, sizes 9 or 11 are typically suitable, while heavier fabrics call for size 14 or 16 needles.

　　The same applies to stretch fabrics: when sewing them, you can use a size 14 needle. Of course, if you want an even more polished finish, consider using a gold‑tipped needle—also known as a round‑tip or anti‑skip needle—which effectively prevents skipped stitches.

　　Stitch Selection

　　Brother household sewing machines offer a wide variety of stitch types, including straight stitches, buttonhole stitches, zigzag stitches, decorative stitches, and more. So, when sewing stretchy fabrics, which stitch should you use?

　　Taking the stitch chart of Brother’s GP60X electronic sewing machine as an example, first, when sewing, you can generally use the straight stitch. However, when working with special elastic fabrics such as rubber bands or elastic cords, you can select stitch number 05, which is an elastic zigzag stitch. In addition, for hemming, you can choose stitch number 08, a hemming stitch; for altering pant legs, stick with stitch number 10, a blind hem stitch; and for buttonholes, opt for stitch numbers 31 or 32, which are specially designed for stretchable buttonholes.

　　The many stitch patterns listed on the stitch chart aren’t just for show—they may serve different purposes or be suited to different fabrics, so don’t overlook them!

　　Stitch length and width selection

　　Stitch length and width are especially critical when sewing stretch fabrics; for this type of fabric, it’s essential to increase the stitch length to effectively prevent puckering.

　　The editor tested the sewing results at stitch lengths of 2.0 and 3.5. Clearly, at a length of 2.0, the fabric shows noticeable puckering and an uneven surface; at 3.5, the fabric lies flat and smooth!

　　Therefore, when sewing stretch fabrics, it is recommended to set the stitch length to 3.5.

　　Operating procedure

　　Sewing technique is also crucial! First, insert the needle into the fabric and begin sewing. When feeding the fabric, maintain a steady pace and sew at a medium to low speed; sewing too quickly can cause thread breakage or skipped stitches.

　　At the same time, keep your hand straight and avoid distorting the fabric, and be careful not to stretch it—stretching can cause skipped stitches or broken threads.

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What kind of fabric makes clothes stretchy?

Illustrated guide to the weaving process, common formulas, and defect analysis—easy to understand even for those new to textiles.

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What kind of fabric makes clothes stretchy?

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Illustrated guide to the weaving process, common formulas, and defect analysis—easy to understand even for those new to textiles.

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